UPDATE: Three months after this the door lock actuator failed completely. Today I posted a video showing more detail regarding electrical diagnosis of a failed door lock actuator, here. https://youtu.be/bLCDAuLuoeE. With hindsight I suspect the actuator was already intermittently failing when I made this video, but since I got it working reliably for three months with lubrication alone, I wasn't inclined to replace the actuator without evidence to justify it. You'll find further details regarding how to take the door panel off and more information regarding how the Chev door lock actutator works, there.
I just did this today on all four doors of my 2005 Sierra 2500HD. I used break caliper grease for lubrication. I'm hoping it will last because of its resistance to heat. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for your video. I just bought an '07 Silverado and the driver's door actuator doesn't seem to like to work with the remote or even the door switch, but if the door is key lock cycled, the actuator works locally by the door switch with door open but not by remote and not once door is closed… Fun stuff!!!
I've replaced both of my lock actuators, all 3 relays and all the fuses for unlock/lock, but my passenger door still won't lock with the door switch or the key fob
You didn’t have to do all that…. my Chevy Silverado did the same thing on the drivers side and turns out the rod was just bent a little I had to bed it back up a little and it works perfectly…
Great video for showing how to repair and lube the door mechanism. I'm having a similar problem with my 2005 suburban, except it seems to be with both rear passenger doors. It seems that they both stick, but they do so simultaneously, for example when one sticks, they both stick and when they do unlock they both unlock. So I am suspecting something electrical because they never stick independently of each other. Do you have any ideas or insight on what may be causing that issue. I will check further but the thing is they both seem to move a tiny bit when attempting to unlock. Thanks, appreciate your video.
"oh crap i just locked myself out of the car" ….you made my day once again sir…nothing like a good belly laugh at ourselves first thing in the morning…i keep TWO sets of primary operating keys at all times and one tucked away "just" in case, appreciate your attention to candor and thoughtful editing after the fact, happy holidays and a safe new year to you way up there in the great white north, and thank you once again for sharing this information, its pure gold to me because its useful and comes from the heart!
When you put the inner panel back on, it can be awkward to slide the panel down and at the same time align the metal rod with the plastic door lock slider. A better way to put the inner panel back on is to remove the plastic slider and its housing from the panel as a single unit (either at the beginning or after the panel is removed). This is shown at the end of the second video. After removing the panel you'll see how plastic clips hold the slider housing in place, you just pry the housing off. You effectively divide the task into two easy steps. Then replacing the panel is easier, because you don't need to align the metal rod while you slide the panel down into place.
Since I live on the far left coast of Oregon the issue here is almost always electrical & due to resistance buildup in the actuators from the humid environment. They will get weaker over time from current starvation. I always keep a spare door-only key inside the passenger rear view mirror wrapped in plastic wrap. The mirrors usually pull out without breaking anything (compression tabs), especially if you can pull on two sides simultaneously.
That was a simple fix for a change, i expected it to be a locked up solenoid or similar 😀
Typically very old cars have snapped wires in the gaiter between the body and door, no surprise really, being flexed for a lifetime is something that copper tends not to enjoy lol.
I solder in loops of wire in the gaiters to let it move, the rear tailgate in small cars also have "The gaiter of death." LOL.
WD-40 is a great cleaner, but I agree with you that it doesn't last well as a lubricant. For these door lock/actuator rods, I've had very good luck in the past using a Scotch-brite pad soaked with WD-40 to clean the rod, then using silicone paste as lubricant. I've found that spray-on lithium grease can weaken some types of plastics in the long term.
UPDATE: Three months after this the door lock actuator failed completely. Today I posted a video showing more detail regarding electrical diagnosis of a failed door lock actuator, here. https://youtu.be/bLCDAuLuoeE. With hindsight I suspect the actuator was already intermittently failing when I made this video, but since I got it working reliably for three months with lubrication alone, I wasn't inclined to replace the actuator without evidence to justify it. You'll find further details regarding how to take the door panel off and more information regarding how the Chev door lock actutator works, there.
I just did this today on all four doors of my 2005 Sierra 2500HD. I used break caliper grease for lubrication. I'm hoping it will last because of its resistance to heat. Thanks for the video!
You gave me the exact solution to my issue. Thank you.
Thanks for your video. I just bought an '07 Silverado and the driver's door actuator doesn't seem to like to work with the remote or even the door switch, but if the door is key lock cycled, the actuator works locally by the door switch with door open but not by remote and not once door is closed… Fun stuff!!!
Excellent video😁
Hahahahhaha
I've replaced both of my lock actuators, all 3 relays and all the fuses for unlock/lock, but my passenger door still won't lock with the door switch or the key fob
Nice WIG
Thanks for the instructional video. It was very clear. I am going to fix my Chevy Silverado door lock today.
Thanks!
You didn’t have to do all that…. my Chevy Silverado did the same thing on the drivers side and turns out the rod was just bent a little I had to bed it back up a little and it works perfectly…
Great video for showing how to repair and lube the door mechanism. I'm having a similar problem with my 2005 suburban, except it seems to be with both rear passenger doors. It seems that they both stick, but they do so simultaneously, for example when one sticks, they both stick and when they do unlock they both unlock. So I am suspecting something electrical because they never stick independently of each other. Do you have any ideas or insight on what may be causing that issue. I will check further but the thing is they both seem to move a tiny bit when attempting to unlock. Thanks, appreciate your video.
Very helpful, thank you.
Thank you very much for this you smart man!
"oh crap i just locked myself out of the car" ….you made my day once again sir…nothing like a good belly laugh at ourselves first thing in the morning…i keep TWO sets of primary operating keys at all times and one tucked away "just" in case, appreciate your attention to candor and thoughtful editing after the fact, happy holidays and a safe new year to you way up there in the great white north, and thank you once again for sharing this information, its pure gold to me because its useful and comes from the heart!
Very informative thanks for posting
Thanx. Great vid. Very thorough
Thanks you thanks you thank you
Wow… nice full head of hair
What if the locl dosent move when you press the the locl button?
When you put the inner panel back on, it can be awkward to slide the panel down and at the same time align the metal rod with the plastic door lock slider. A better way to put the inner panel back on is to remove the plastic slider and its housing from the panel as a single unit (either at the beginning or after the panel is removed). This is shown at the end of the second video. After removing the panel you'll see how plastic clips hold the slider housing in place, you just pry the housing off. You effectively divide the task into two easy steps. Then replacing the panel is easier, because you don't need to align the metal rod while you slide the panel down into place.
Since I live on the far left coast of Oregon the issue here is almost always electrical & due to resistance buildup in the actuators from the humid environment. They will get weaker over time from current starvation.
I always keep a spare door-only key inside the passenger rear view mirror wrapped in plastic wrap. The mirrors usually pull out without breaking anything (compression tabs), especially if you can pull on two sides simultaneously.
Thank you my friend I have Suburban myself I am sure I will use your method sometimes in future. Cheers my friend. Thanks for sharing.
That was a simple fix for a change, i expected it to be a locked up solenoid or similar 😀
Typically very old cars have snapped wires in the gaiter between the body and door, no surprise really, being flexed for a lifetime is something that copper tends not to enjoy lol.
I solder in loops of wire in the gaiters to let it move, the rear tailgate in small cars also have "The gaiter of death." LOL.
Great work Dave in getting it all cleaned up and working very well! Glad to see that it didn't cost you anything to get it fixed. 😀👍
Well done, as always! And you didn't even get your white shirt dirty! 🙂
WD-40 is a great cleaner, but I agree with you that it doesn't last well as a lubricant. For these door lock/actuator rods, I've had very good luck in the past using a Scotch-brite pad soaked with WD-40 to clean the rod, then using silicone paste as lubricant. I've found that spray-on lithium grease can weaken some types of plastics in the long term.