Good job running your deck boards and stair treads over the risers. The way they had done it previously is a recipe for disaster and why you had so much rot. Pro tip: instead of silicone I would have treated the rot with copper green and used 4 inch deck tape to cover the rotting joist, the board you sistered on,and the riser. That virtually guarantees you will never get debris or water in there ever again. One roll of deck tape would have done all the joists on a deck that small.
Sorry SIR, your repair might look good, but not a smart way of completing a project. I can tell that deck gets wet and holds a lot of moisture. If you do not replace the old, rotting pieces, which your X-Ray vision cannot see through, you are asking for trouble down the road. I will not feel bad for you if you have to remove those good boards, only to replace something that should have been fixed form the start. Good luck with all that. I do things right the first time.
Nice job. But that new wood should have weathered for at least 3 months before staining. The weathered wood becomes more porous to absorb more of the stain.
Personally, I would have removed all the badly rotten sub-structure boards and then repaired those with very minor damage with bondo wood putty. Also, never gap pressure treated deck boards but butt them up against one another. As they dry, the necessary gaps will form.
I admire the hard work. But it was so small and the damage pretty bad might as well replace. I was in a similar situation helping someone on a much larger scale. The original intent was saving things would save time and money. That turned out not to be the case. Accepting that and ditching old stuff resulted in a much better safer product.
Great video thanks for posting! I have the same issue and I'm definitely gonna follow your approach. I did have one question though. My deck is twice as wide as yours should I use 16' boards that cover the whole width or two 8' boards? Thanks!
HI fairly good video, i would suggest at 4:46 not to do that silicone,it does more harm that good as air needs to get in there. And on top of that it's a hack looking job. when you lay silicon… one straight bead and stop, remember your not patching a wall .lol YOU should put a piece of felt paper there.if you don't want to buy a 15 dollar roll,just ask at any construction site they WILL GIVE you all the scrap paper you want FREE.Also on the front kick-board,you should have put a piece of the decking in place of the crappy 1×6 pine.it a much better choice.For one thing it's redwood and 2 it blends in better and is stronger.But you did improve the looks and safety of the deck by far.
Thank you for this video. I have a similar project but my deck is 31' x 15'. In some areas I had to cut the nails. Do you recommend leaving the remainder of the nail in the joist. Also, what do you think about using deck tape on top of the joist to prevent rot before laying the boards?
That’s not a repair, that’s a replacement. And it should be An in the title not And.
Who’s the dumbass who built stairs in front of that basement window?! Guess it can’t be used for emergencies 😩😆😆😆🤦🏽♀️
This was great video! Did you ever repair/replace the railing? I just got a new house and the deck is pretty old..I want to fix it
Thanks for sharing , found some tips very useful
Good job running your deck boards and stair treads over the risers. The way they had done it previously is a recipe for disaster and why you had so much rot.
Pro tip: instead of silicone I would have treated the rot with copper green and used 4 inch deck tape to cover the rotting joist, the board you sistered on,and the riser. That virtually guarantees you will never get debris or water in there ever again. One roll of deck tape would have done all the joists on a deck that small.
Thanks for the tip my patio is in the same condition needs repair work I'm going to use your idea thank you..👍
Sorry SIR, your repair might look good, but not a smart way of completing a project. I can tell that deck gets wet and holds a lot of moisture. If you do not replace the old, rotting pieces, which your X-Ray vision cannot see through, you are asking for trouble down the road. I will not feel bad for you if you have to remove those good boards, only to replace something that should have been fixed form the start. Good luck with all that. I do things right the first time.
Boards should have grooves on the bottom for air flow.
Nice job. But that new wood should have weathered for at least 3 months before staining. The weathered wood becomes more porous to absorb more of the stain.
wooow worker gloves 🧤 home boy keep hand protected an safe from cuts lol practice
Easy sanding tool –
https://youtu.be/M0r7i7Ve_Ug
What happened to the railing?
You can go to the Stodoys plans website if you would like to do it yourself.
In my first work I always used Woodglut plans.
That turned out beautiful!
Personally, I would have removed all the badly rotten sub-structure boards and then repaired those with very
minor damage with bondo wood putty. Also, never gap pressure treated deck boards but butt them up against one another. As they dry, the necessary gaps will form.
I admire the hard work. But it was so small and the damage pretty bad might as well replace. I was in a similar situation helping someone on a much larger scale. The original intent was saving things would save time and money. That turned out not to be the case. Accepting that and ditching old stuff resulted in a much better safer product.
You should've replaced all the rotten boards. Putting sealer on the top of a new board pressed against a rotten one does absolutely nothing
Great video thanks for posting! I have the same issue and I'm definitely gonna follow your approach. I did have one question though. My deck is twice as wide as yours should I use 16' boards that cover the whole width or two 8' boards? Thanks!
Solid job!
Excelent
HI fairly good video, i would suggest at 4:46 not to do that silicone,it does more harm that good as air needs to get in there. And on top of that it's a hack looking job. when you lay silicon… one straight bead and stop, remember your not patching a wall .lol YOU should put a piece of felt paper there.if you don't want to buy a 15 dollar roll,just ask at any construction site they WILL GIVE you all the scrap paper you want FREE.Also on the front kick-board,you should have put a piece of the decking in place of the crappy 1×6 pine.it a much better choice.For one thing it's redwood and 2 it blends in better and is stronger.But you did improve the looks and safety of the deck by far.
Did you treat the boards before you installed them?
Thanks, I also have a similar problem, however is it good to leave a space for moisture, doesn't it make the ground acceptable to termites, mold
Thank you for this video. I have a similar project but my deck is 31' x 15'. In some areas I had to cut the nails. Do you recommend leaving the remainder of the nail in the joist. Also, what do you think about using deck tape on top of the joist to prevent rot before laying the boards?
Wish I could do this 😠
demontering with legg
As a newbie — I missed how you conditioned the old deck panels. Guessing sand, sand and more sanding?
awesome
nice
So cool, great job!👍