Use this method to repair dry rot damage in a window and avoid having to replace the entire window frame and sill. http://bit.ly/JLGDEY
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Thak you!
this problem will come back… since the source of the moisture leak (window) was not fixed/replaced.
Great video.
Probably would have been less work to just replace the 2 boards.
Wow! Excellent job thank you for sharing
Dog rough but quick
Once done that corner will be better then the wood ever was
Good patch job/bandaid but eventually the house starts to look like a quilt lol. The entire sill (or at least the nosing) will need to be replaced. And It's often just as easy to replace the vertical casing leg as it is to patch it. And it's always good practice to prime the cut ends of the old & new wood pieces. Good video nonetheless.
Looks more like wet rot. If dry rot, no notice has been taken of the fruiting body or the mycelium.
Purrfect. Just what I needed. Thanks for sharing
Great lesson. When I do repairs like this what I do is use the resin to bond the new pieces of wood in place. If you smear the edges of the new block with resin before placing them you can get a good edge to edge seal.
nice
Dry Rot does not exist. Wood rots when it is wet.
👏Good job
Expensive tools for a NED!
Take it out, and do it right #LAZYandstupid that guy knows nothing.
What kind of carpenter are you? You should have made a 45 degree cut in the sill…..not 90. Also, your filler is garbage. You should have placed metallic tape after treating the wound. Then filled a hypodermic with premixed fiberglass resin, squirted thru the tape, and let it set up. no sanding necessary after the resin sets up. AND THE MAJOR F UP WAS NOT PUTTING FILLER IN THE SEAMS BEFORE NAILING. YOUR FILLER OBVIOUSLY DID NOT COMPLETELY FILL UP THE JOINTS.
Ya…naw. The best repair is to replace it. Period.
Excellent instructions. I have the exact problem in a couple of places, and now I know how to tackle them. Thanks.
Great video, each step is explained in a nice short manner