This step-by-step video walks you through the process of how to install a shower pan liner. The Oatey PVC Shower Pan Liner is an economical, flexible liner designed for use in tile showers and other concealed waterproofing applications. It’s made of 40 mil thick, flexible PVC sheet and marked in 6 in. increments for easy measuring.
Learn more about the Oatey Shower Pan Liner here: https://bit.ly/3Soilsq
For step-by-step instructions, check out our project guide: www.oatey.com/resources/project-guides/how-install-shower-pan-liner
A few things to add that are missing in this video that may or may not be obvious:
1. Oatey x-15 sets up in contact with PVC very quickly, get your folds figured out and creased before you apply.
2. Oatey x-15 smells eye burningly strong, even with minimal exposure. I believe when I used it my sinuses were dissolved to reveal their freshest layer, even while wearing a mask and trying to keep distance.
3. The curb requires smaller hospital folds to deal with excess material, people may already know this, but it's not explicitly shown in the video.
Works great.
Step one: throw oatey in garbage
Step two: buy a better shower drain system.
How do you allow for the added thickness of the shower pan in the folded up corners when applying backer board? You have added at least a quarters of an inch thickness to the bottom five inches so when installing backerboard over the pan then the walls bow out at the bottom which really screws with installing the tile. I figure that the bottom the studs need trimming or you will have to add shims to compensate for the added thickness of the pan at the bottom of the wall. And I have yet to see anybody compensate for that. At the corners I have cut into the corner studs and tuck the corner of the pan into the wall thereby eliminating the added thickness of the folded pan in the corner.
Ok, help me out. What goes on top of the liner? You couldn’t tile right on top of that could you?
anyway to test that shower pan without having to put in a bunch of water? I'm doing one on the second floor and if it leaks, it will ruin the downstairs ceiling…
So now you also Mortar to desired height over the liner ? I’m confused I have a unfinished basement concrete floor I got my shower all
Framed out it will be tile. Can I just lay the liner right on my concrete floor and then Mortor over top? Or does it matter help please
You do not need a pre slope pour, install the liner right on the sub floor
What about the cuts on the corners of the curb
One of the worst instructional video by manufacturer ever. A mortar bed will rot you subfloor for one and secondly it mentions nothing about it being a pre slope. Personally I do not do a pre slope. My liner goes right against the sub floor with corners properly folded and attached to the stud blocking. The liner is siliconed to the floor flange and locking collar is bolted to that. I then do a proper sloped mud bed made from brick mortar. Backer boards are put in place with ½ gap between bottom edge and bud bed to prevent wicking. Waterproof walls and curb and move on to tile installation. Ive not had a failure as of yet. Happy tiling.
The shower divider where the door sits on that part also gets cement board ?
The video didn’t show how to do the liner corners a the curb. Some people will cut and think the dam corner will seal. I folded and sealed with X15 so as not to compromise the liner at the curb corners
Does the liner have to be glued to the floor?
The video doesn't show how to cut the corner where the curb is.
Why not put felt paper before pre slope?
Well, color me ignorant. I have never been involved with the construction phase, even though I've been a plumber for nearly forty years. I never once ran into one of these pan liners, even though I was constantly working on floor drain replacements, toilet flange replacements, and shower drain replacements. This video is like an epiphany. Finally, seeing the correct way to ensure your shower is properly sealed is like a lightning strike to my aged soul. All I can say is that down here in Florida they must be paying off the inspectors to look the other way. I will never accept anything less in one of my homes.
Wow look at that it takes the company to show somebody how to do it right LOL, I would take a oscillating tool with a brand new blade and knocked out those three layered sections in the corners of the wood so it recess is back in the woods so your concrete board or foam board or whatever using does not bulge out at the bottom. And I've never done the double curb system but I would like to add you should pitch your curb because when water gets down on top of that liner, and the two-by-four curb is level the water's going to go one way or the other you wanted to go inside the shower so always pitch the two-by-four ittle bit into the shower, also in my opinion X-15 on top of the bottom three piece drain and underneath is the only place X15 or silicone should be, I know you guys use silicone or whatever I think X-15 work better. I've done some tests. Either is fine. I also use a plastic weep hole protector every single shower even if it's linear drain. And at first I was like he stapling through the top of the curb LOL but then you covered it with the second piece, you actually don't need the second piece you just make the same folds and you do the same cut that you did on top of the curb on the outside and the damn corners, also damn Corners are recommended on the outside and inside so we use for now. I constantly have to come in because I'm a tile guy and fix plumbing guys problems putting silicone on top of the liner and then putting the second piece down and screwing and smashing and smearing silicone and clogging the weep holes, so I have to disassemble it before the silicone dries get it all out make sure it works, flood test excetera and these are professional plumbing companies LOL. Most tile guys know how to hook up a shower drain w a y better than most plumbers. Sorry but it's the truth. Great video…… also in the beginning of the video it shows you screwing the bottom piece down to the wood subfloor but that leaves no room for the pre-slope and then your video skips to the pre-slope being done but that's what the little for divots are for on the bottom of that piece of bottom drain it's a half-inch room to accept half inch concrete for the pre slope
I wonder who the hell does it this way
Are you supposed to screw the base of the drain right to the floor? I thought you need to leave a gap for the pre-slope?
I still don’t understand how 3/8” of mortar and tile works with the drain cover sitting so high from the liner